This post was originally published in 2012. It has been revised and republished.
You might also enjoy my post Is it Paleo? And is it Real Food?
Have you ever been told (or scolded, or chastised, or holler’d at) that dairy isn’t Paleo?
Most of us have had this argument – er, discussion. I’ve been Paleoin’ since around 2008, and as a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner (NTP) it’s certainly an issue I address often.
I also discuss the dairy controversy in my best-selling book, Eat the Yolks. (And for my next trick, I’ll discuss pseudo-scientific pitfalls like appeals to authority).
Because I view a Paleo plan and a “Real Food” diet as nearly interchangeable these days, I’m going to address the two questions – is dairy Paleo? And is it Real Food? Together.
On one hand, dairy protein intolerance is common. Milk has been studied to be insulinogenic (as in, can cause an undesirable insulin response) and inflammatory. Conventional milk – the milk that’s available in 99% of supermarkets and that most of us are raised on from childhood – is generally from cows raised in massive confinement dairies, who are treated poorly, prone to infections, and fed an unnatural diet (part of the reason the milk has to be pasteurization-bombed into oblivion).
Dairy in general can be a highly processed food, first because it’s pasteurized for “safety” (read: heated to incredibly high temperatures to compensate for its shady beginnings by killing any microorganisms that thrive in factory farmed dairy).
Then, for commercial uniformity (read: so any cream that’s left after removing the bulk of it to be made into ice cream doesn’t separate, float to the top and scare people) it’s usually homogenized; meaning the fat globules are mechanically forced through a sieve to make them uniform in size and to force them to distribute themselves uniformly throughout the product. It’s yet another form of processing.
Of course, that’s if the milk isn’t stripped of its natural fat (“skim,” “lowfat”). Most conventional dairy is stripped of its fat, however, and when the fat is gone, so are any fat-soluble vitamins that came with it.
That said, since, as with humans, cows and their milk are only as nutritious as the food that the cows eat, when they’re fed the wrong food, their milk has very little built-in nutrition anyway. The same goes for the butter, cheese, and other products made from it.
Finally, dairy, in particular, milk, is non-human boob juice, which, if you ask almost any anti-dairy fanatic, means no human should consume it, ever, because no other species drinks the milk of another mammal.
So. Yeah. Dairy sounds pretty disgusting. Not to mention highly processed, not at all nutritious, and not worth touching with a ten-foot udder.
On the other hand, there are many folks who don’t consider conventional dairy products to be real food any more than they consider a McDonald’s burger patty to be a healthy source of protein. Yet they consider milk as it occurs in nature, and dairy products made from it, to be as good a choice as a grass-fed steak. Why? Because not all dairy products are the same. Not all beef is the same. You’ve got to know your food to know how to judge it, and it’s possible that we’re judging dairy too harshly.
A few reasons why: first, because the studies available on milk’s inflammatory properties and insulinogenic properties appear NOT to differentiate between conventional milk, described above, and milk as it occurs in nature, as I’m about to describe.
Milk as it occurs in nature is from cows (and, of course, other animals, because, as Greg Focker states, you can milk anything with nipples) raised on pasture and fed a natural diet. It’s full-fat (nature doesn’t “skim” anything). Because the fat is intact and the cows eat the proper food, the fat-soluble vitamins A, D and K2, are present.
Now, if we humans do choose to “skim” the fat from milk, we can create butter or ghee with it. These are full-fat (fat is your friend), vitamin-dense foods that have been important parts of many cultures’ diets for a very, very long time.
(If you’d like to know more about what A, D, and K2 do, read my book. They are fat-soluble vitamins and they’re beyond important – and they’re available only from animal foods. Deficiency of one of them has even been suggested to be a major cause of heart disease.)
Dairy as it occurs in nature is neither pasteurized nor homogenized. (This is often called “raw.”) This means that, in its natural state, it’s completely unprocessed. It’s a food that contains all the nutrition necessary for babies to grow – which can certainly mean that it’s just for babies. But it can also mean that it’s ridiculously nutritious.
As I discuss in my book, when people first domesticated dairy goats as many as 10,000 years ago, they were actually securing a reliable source of super-dense nourishment that required only a bit of vegetation – the kind only digestible by ruminants, so generally useless to humans – to produce nutrition.
The use of dairy as it occurs in nature is starting to look like a pretty ingenious thing.
On the issue of lactose and dairy protein intolerance: some humans actually have evolved the ability to digest lactose, likely more than 10,000 years ago, suggesting that dairy DID provide a reliable source of nourishment throughout history for many populations. Some of us actually did evolve to drink it. Further, while lactase, the built-in enzyme present in raw milk that enables the digestion of lactose, is said to be destroyed by pasteurization, it remains intact in raw milk.
Add this to the myth-busting I do in Eat the Yolks regarding dairy proteins and cancer, whether animals besides us humans drink the milk of other species, and whether a caveman would pass on a stick of butter, the case against dairy just isn’t so cut-and-dry.
Yes, Virginia. Dairy as it occurs in nature IS real food. Humans across the world have thrived on it for thousands of years. It’s a perfectly dense source of fat-soluble vitamins, protein, conjugated linoleic acid (a cancer-fighter), fat, and carbohydrate. We could literally live on nothing but milk if we had to. The same can’t be said of, say, kale. (So, if you ask me, if anything, it’s kale that’s not “real food.” #kaleistheworst)
But should we eat dairy? When it comes to the real, raw, as it occurs in nature stuff, is it worth it?
First, I want to reflect on how lucky we are that we can even ask that question. We have such free access to any food we want, from any corner of the world, that we can thumb our noses (or is it our thumbs? Can you thumb your thumb?) at a perfectly nutritious food that can be gleaned from a symbiotic relationship with an animal by simply providing that animal with pasture to graze on.
The question of whether we should drink it from a nutritional perspective is vastly different from the question of whether dairy is “Paleo.” From a nutritional perspective, the answer is simple: sure. If you want to, and it works for you, and you’ve got access to dairy as it occurs in nature, such as the raw milk, butter, ghee, cheese, or cream of pasture-raised cows from a source you trust, go for it.
Though we don’t need dairy for calcium, it’s a great source of nutrition if you tolerate it as part of a varied diet based around other real, nutritious foods. Like almost any food, from strawberries to peppers, not everybody tolerates everything.
And if you don’t tolerate it, awesome. More ghee for me.
But is dairy Paleo?
I say: caveman would if he could.
Look, here’s the thing: Dairy might not be on the “yes list” from the branded, trademarked Paleo Diet. It may be heavily evangelized against by many by-the-book devotees. But are we Paleo folk looking to split hairs over what cavemen did or are we looking to critically evaluate issues of nutrition and common sense?
Paleo man didn’t eat the same stuff any of us Paleo folk eat today. Paleo man didn’t eat Angus beef, which has a history of just a few hundred years as we know it. Paleo man didn’t eat beefsteak tomatoes – hell, he didn’t even eat heirloom tomatoes. Their meat was different. Their forage was different. What does that mean to us? It means we gotsta think.
No, Cave Men didn’t make butter. They were likely more preoccupied with staying alive than with domesticating wild animals, milking them, and churning their milk into delicious, creamy, buttery goodness to put atop their roasted sweet potato. So, no – Cavemen didn’t eat dairy as we know it today.
Healthy, traditional, native cultures – like those studied by Dr. Weston A. Price – did eat butter. And milk. And cream. And cheese.
How do we connect those dots?
With a perspective beyond the “dos” and “don’ts.” Yes, folks – we’re gonna get hung up on the details. (Remember when being detail-oriented was considered a good thing?)
What we know of our ancestors, whether we’re talking Cavemen or more recent, healthy, native cultures, is that they valued the most nutrient-dense foods above all others.
Dairy as it occurs in nature IS nutrient-dense. Many of the nutrients found in dairy as it occurs in nature are the same nutrients found in liver, bone marrow, and the fermented contents of animals’ intestinal tracts. Caveman’s paradise.
Yes, cow’s milk is for baby cows. Yes, milk is boob juice. But us top-o’-the-food-chainers have a long history of consuming the various emissions and in-to-out contents of the animals we eat. Just read this book for a whole chapter on recipes using Milk, Eggs, and Sperm. (If you had to choose two…)
Modern conventional dairy is the problem. It’s the factory-farmed skim milk we once poured over Fruity Krunchy Pebble Smackers. It’s the Ultra-Pasteurized White Water we once chugged with trans-fat and gluten-filled cookies. It’s the part-skim pre-shredded mozzarella we once ate in our stuffed-crust pizzas.
Perhaps the real question here is whether we should even care about whether something is by-the-book “Paleo,” OR if we should actually consider something to be Paleo precisely because it’s nutritious, historically valued, and eaten in its whole, natural state.
And just for fun, here’s a cool fact: Interestingly, gut bacteria actually produce butyrate, a fatty acid also found in butter, from certain types of fiber that we eat. You’re gonna get your butter, by hook or by crook.
Stephan Guyenet, PhD, writes about some of the amazing properties of Butyrate here, and I talk more about this in Eat the Yolks.
Both the Paleo and Real Food lifestyles should be one of deep thought, continued learning, and valuing context. In a way, that sucks – we want an easy, rules-based existence. We want a simple Handbook with simple Laws. And, in a way, this is simple enough to break down into four easy steps:
- Eat the most nutrient-dense, nutrient-available foods possible that you tolerate well.
- Use the lessons of the past to inform your choices in the present.
- Eat unprocessed foods: animals, seafood, veggies, roots, tubers, healthy fats, and “traditional foods” when you can – including dairy, if that works for you.
- Print out Nutrition in 100 Words and put it on your refrigerator.
Did you make it this far? If so, leave a comment. Are you a Butter Believer? Share your thoughts below!
Thanks for reading!